Water Pump Underdrive Pulley
I recently managed to get my hands on a lightweight under drive pulley for my waterpump. It was sourced from Nate Tune in NSW, along with some other gear.
Here is how I installed it... (I installed it before I took the photos, so just imagine it's the old one..)
To start, you'll need to move some stuff out of the way...
Disconnect the steel coolant pipe (the polished one in the picture) and remove it. Also you'll have to remove the oil dipstick too. On the 4AGZE it is fixed to a bracket just above the supercharger by a 10mm bolt.
Now, once you've removed the drivers side wheel and the plastic guard for the pulleys, you'll see the various pulleys.
The pulley has 4x 10mm bolts holding it to the water pump shaft. Grab a spanner and loosen them off (just a bit.)
Just under the water pump pulley, you'll see the idler pulley. You need to loosen the nut in the centre first, then from the top of the engine, looking down, loosen the 13mm bolt to loosen the pulley.
On the 20 valve engine, the adjustment is done with the alternator. You'll have to loosen the bolt below the alternator then the one on top and swing the alternator towards the block. Use a crowbar or similar to lever it back when you retension the belt.
You'll need a nice long extension bar to reach the bolt. Loosen it all the way and then remove the pulley.
Next is to pull the crank pulley. There is a trick to loosen the nut, which involves a socket wrench and ignition key....
Stick the socket wrench on the nut for the crank pulley and brace it either on the ground to the FRONT of the car, or if you're lazy like me, on the drive shaft...
Now get in the car and crank the car JUST enough to kick the crank over. To be safe, it's probably a wise idea to disconnect the coilpacks/coil to prevent the car starting. The force exerted by the starter motor will loosen the bolt with a total lack of skun nuckles and obscure expletives (assuming you didn't manage to start the engine.....)
Loosen the idler pulley for the accessories belt in the same way as the first idler pulley and remove the crank pulley.
Once you've got the first idler pulley and crank pulley out of the way, you can remove the bolts holding the water pump pulley on. Now remove the pulley.
But wait. The locating nodule thing on the pulley flange is in the way and won't let the pulley past it and the chassis rail!! Oh, lawdy! What to do?
Enter left, the crowbar. You'll need to lever the engine just that few mm to allow the pulley to come out. Lucky the rubber engine mounts have that amount of flex.
Grab the crowbar and brace it between the chassis rail (with a rag to prevent scratches) and the central nut on the second idler pulley (you did leave it installed, didn't you?..). Now gently (with all your might) lever the engine and extract the pulley.
It's not as hard as it sounds, just take it easy and the pulley will almost fall out.
Once you're at this stage, it's basically a reversal to install the new pulley. Don't try to tighten the crank bolt the same way you removed it, the engine doesn't go backwards... Just tighten it nice and tight and the rotation of the engine will take care of the rest.
Make sure the belts are tightened properly (10mm deflection on the front belt at it's longest straight point and 5mm for the rear) and don't forget to reinstall the oil dipstick or top up the coolant.
Test run the engine for a few minutes then take it for a test drive. Responsive driving ahoy!